Reflections on walking Hadrian's Wall

June 2018

Walking Hadrian’s Wall was our 30th wedding anniversary present to ourselves. A chance to reforge our already strong bonds and to enjoy each other’s company. A little time out from busy work schedules to revel in the joy of the everyday, to reflect on the world around us and take on a challenge at the same time. So why Hadrian’s Wall? Well its only 120 km to walk from one coast to the other, across an entire country. So the sense of achievement to say we walked across England was one factor (although we didn’t quite do that due to the distraction of visiting a fantastic restaurant before we got there – we did do 100km).  Then there’s the fact that it’s a World Heritage Site – an architectural feat built by 15,000 men in less than six years in 120AD. To walk those same pathways, to touch the stones that were laid by men from around the world, to reflect on the lives of the women and children who accompanied them was another attraction. Finally, the wall was built by the Romans to keep the barbarian Scots or Picts from invading.

The Tullie House Museum (tulliehouse.co.uk) has a very moving installation on all the walls currently separating people: Morocco and Yemen; Cyprus; Gaza; Mexico and the USA; Zimbabwe and South Africa. Although after the fact, walking the wall was a timely reminder that walls are not only built to keep people out but as concrete barriers used to control and humiliate. Donald Trump’s efforts to separate Mexican families is testament to the use of “walls” – the real losers children and humanity.

The walking is wonderful; things that would have been just quick impressions as you fly by in a car or train can be appreciated. Foxgloves, bluebells, buttercups, elderflower, thistles and hogweed <insert photos>. Bucolic vistas of sheep (especially the gorgeous Northumberland variety) and cattle, and rippling crops (barley, wheat, oats and beans) as you walk across paddocks and in some case through outbuildings. Fences were traversed with ladders, step and squeeze stiles and through kissing gates. The effort to get to the top of hills was rewarded with views that went on forever – far enough away from the endless network of roads for that noise to fade into the background leaving only the bleats and lows of animals, the whirr of insects, the gentle breezes and the call of birds.

Hadrian’s Wall is crumbling, non-existent in parts but a testament to Roman ingenuity, engineering and sheer arrogance. There are remnants of mile castles and watchtowers. In some areas the only vestige is a change in the landscape as you walk a path beside a vast ditch or the vallum. The vallum is a ditch 6 metres wide and 2 metres deep with a flat bottom flanked by two mounds of the same dimensions. Eroded with time but still very much present we often walked along of the top of one of these mounds.

“Garum was a fermented fish sauce used as a condiment in ancient Rome and Greece. It was a commodity that was regularly traded and was perhaps of the first “global” foods shipped to where Roman soldiers were stationed. It was used to salt dishes and adding moisture at the same time. If you are interested in learning more then the website www.coquinaria.nl provides more information or you can follow up on Australian food historian Barbara Santich’s book The Original Mediterranean Cuisine (1995).”

Along the way are fort sites Vindolanda, Housesteads, Birdoswald, places where soldiers were stationed and villages grew up around them – homes for the unofficial families and for all the services that soldiers required. Most of the sites are still active archaeological digs, unearthing artefacts giving an insight into lives past. Due to the conditions the artefacts are phenomenal, shoes, baskets, pottery, jewellery and tools. Hammers, picks and shovels that are still recognisable, designs that have not changed indicating that the functionality has been maintained across the millennia. There are amphora for fish sauce (garum), olives and olive oil. Containers etched with the owner’s name just to show that holding on to food in a share house was a challenge even then, some things never change.

The rural idyll sharply contrasted with the industrial capital Newcastle-on-Thyne where we started our walk. Behind the pastoral mirage are increasing unemployment and economic hardship leaving in its wake disaffected young people with little hope for the future. Many from London are coming to the North buying cheaper housing and doing the commute – the demand is sending housing prices up. The pub we stayed at was behind an aged care home and apparently most of those residents have been deposited there by relatives from more southern areas – a cost saving. The publican lost a son last year to sepsis – a casualty of a struggling national health system. Another timely reminder that health care systems need to be well-staffed, well-funded and universal – anything less means those on lower incomes are left to the mercies of a failing system. We just need to look to the USA for what we don’t want – Medicare must be protected whatever the cost

So an opportunity to learn something about history, to experience a different landscape, to eat some wonderful food and to grow as a human being. A friend remarked that the walk was a bit like a marriage. It had its ups and downs, some tough bits but absolutely worth every step.

So what are some practicalities.

We took about eight days but that included two nights in Wallsend before we began (to recover from the flight) and a rest day at the Twice Brewed Pub which we needed – to let our feet recover. If you don’t have that long and you are relatively fit (there are some serious hills and steps to climb) the part where the wall was at its most spectacular, continuous across the sills, is between Shield-on-the-Wall and Greenhead. There doesn’t look to be many places to stay at these locations so the next best may be to do Chollerford to Once Brewed and then on to Banks or Brampton or Gisland.

This bit is about 18km but will take you longer due to the terrain. Vindolanda is located along this stretch as well and is well worth a visit. Sewingshields and the Sycamore Gap are also here and you go past Housesteads as well. We stopped off at the Twice Brewed Inn which was very comfortable, had some good food and a good array of ales and gins. We took a little side trip to Haltwhistle and through the Haltwhistle Burn and caught sight of a water vole on the banks of the river.

Where we stayed:

Wallsend: Dorset Arms – a chatty host – rooms are above the pub and can get a bit noisy but bearable. https://www.dorsetarmshotel.co.uk/

Wylam: Laburnum House – lovely room, quiet, breakfast could be consumed in the garden. Restaurant was closed when we were there but a couple of good pubs and a wood-fired pizza place. We had a ham and hogweed pizza – good to see foraging going on in the fields.  https://laburnum-guest-house-at-bistro-englaze-wylam.booked.net/

Chollerford: The George – well this is an old country hotel with convoluted corridors that you almost need to leave a bread trail to find your way around. Someone described it as God’s waiting room and it was a little bit Fawlty Towers like. Food was very ordinary but reasonable (albeit hot) rooms and right on the river. https://www.coastandcountryhotels.com/hotels/the-george

Once Brewed: Twice-Brewed Inn: One of the highlights – rooms were fresh and modern, given nobody was expecting the heat we had a fan was provided which helped keep it cool. Good food served in the restaurant below, plenty of fresh fruit for breakfast. Had a rest day here and whiled away a few hours reading while sipping on gin and beer. https://twicebrewedinn.co.uk/

B&B at the Heart of Hadrian’s Wall: a little bit off the wall route but the hosts came to collect us when our feet just wouldn’t go any further. Its an old coaching inn done up beautifully but retains its authentic charm. Local honey for breakfast – great conversation.

Carlisle: The Cornerways – Adele is a wonderful no-nonsense host. We got the room with an ensuite so get in early otherwise you may need to share. Rooms are small but clean. https://www.cornerwaysbandb.co.uk/

Where we ate:

Davanti Italian Restaurant at Tynemouth http://www.davanticlassico.co.uk/

Dingle Dell Teahouse at Heddon on the Wall – popped in for breakfast after the walk up hill from Wylam

Robin Hood Inn at East Wallhouses Perfect on the long trek for an ice cold drink and a bite to eat – another accommodation option as well http://robinhoodinnhadrianswall.com/

Twice Brewed Inn – pub food but done well. Do a local cheese platter just a shame that nobody can tell you where they are from

Stag Inn – Crosby on Eden – again a bit of lay over mid-walk for a beer and a bite http://www.staginncrosby.com/

The Last Zebra Gastro Pub at Carlisle – some interesting dishes and a good range of vegetarian options https://thelastzebra.co.uk/